A NEW STANDARD IN DIAMOND PERFECTION
A widely-held perception today is that if you purchase a highly respected GIA triple excellent diamond, you are buying a perfect Hearts and Arrows diamond. This is not the case.
It is true that perfect Hearts and Arrows diamonds submitted to GIA would receive their top grade but not all GIA certified triple excellent diamonds are automatically Hearts and Arrows diamonds.
It is important to understand how GIA arrive at giving diamonds an “excellent” rating. Their latest cut grading system includes many different proportion sets that are so broad, indicating many of those diamonds are clearly questionable in terms of being a perfect cut. We can give you further information and essential advice.
Cutting TripleEx H&A™ diamonds is incredibly difficult and time consuming, taking four times longer than any other round brilliant diamond, simply because of the high degree of symmetry needed, limited proportion sets for which perfect hearts and arrows patterns are visible, and cutting precision ensuring maximum light return. TripleEx H&A™ diamonds are cut and polished without concern for weight retention and with no other goal than being perfect Hearts and Arrows diamonds with light brilliance above all others.
Nick will give you peace-of-mind in knowing that you are getting a true TripleEx H&A™ diamond.
Already certified with GIA and being given Ex/Ex/Ex (triple excellent) for cut, polish and symmetry, a TripleEx H&A™ diamond must have accurate table and depth percentages, crown and pavilion depths and angles that are perfect for achieving the ultimate cut proportions. They are then carefully studied under a special H&A Scope to check the quality and crispness of the diamond’s unique Hearts and Arrows formation. We can show you in our studio.
Finally, the diamond is viewed through an Aset Scope to determine its light return and brilliance. Only then, if the diamond passes these strict criteria, will it be laser inscribed with the TripleEx H&A™ logo. It will then have printed, its own, TripleEx H&A™ certificate, showing images of its unique Hearts and Arrows formation and its Aset scope image showing its scintillating light return.
As a Nick Ireland client, you are guaranteed of owning the world’s most perfectly cut Hearts and Arrows diamond.
Each TripleEx H&A™ diamond is unique – one-in-the-world. It is presented in a beautifully crafted, hand made ‘Black Box’ with a Hearts and Arrows viewer inside, so you can show your family and friends that you have, indeed, the worlds most perfectly cut Hearts and Arrows diamond.
When it comes to creating a ring setting for your TripleEx H&A™ diamond, Nick will oversee the entire process – from design to finish, hence his unique brand promise of …
“One diamond. One person. One ring.”
It is essential that the table size, star facets, crown and pavilion angles and lower girdle halves all work harmoniously together to create perfect hearts and arrows and exceptional light brilliance. The diagram below shows which parts of the diamond we are referring to.
A TripleEx H&A™ Diamond has an optimum table size, Star and Pavillion facets of the correct length, Lower girdle halves that are 100% correct in size, shape and length, and crown and pavilion angles working harmoniously together ensuring perfect light brilliance and crisp symmetrical Hearts and Arrows.
The image below shows a TripleEx H&A™ diamond that has optimum percentages and angles when viewed through a hearts and arrows viewer.
THE CREATION OF HEARTS & ARROWS
Below are 2 images illustrating how the arrows are formed in a TripleEx H&A™ diamond. The image on the left shows 2 pavilion main facets in different shades of grey that are being viewed through the pavilion side of the diamond.
When the diamond is turned over and viewed through the table you can see that the pavilion facets form the shaft of the arrow and then reflect 180° to form the arrow head opposite. The arrow shaft, which is the pavilion main facet is called a ‘see through facet’ whilst the arrow head is called a ‘reflected’ facet because it is a 180° reflection of the main pavilion facet.
Therefore each arrow is a combination of 2 separate pavilion main facets.
The next image illustrates how the hearts are formed in a TripleEx H&A™ diamond. When viewed through the pavilion side the pavilion main facet(on the left hand side of the image) reflects 180° to form 2 halves of 2 separate hearts (on the right hand side of the image).
Therefore each heart is a combination of 2 reflected pavilion main facets and if they are not all exactly the same length and angle the hearts will not be uniform and will appear uneven.
Perfect hearts are a combination of precise pavilion main facets reflecting 180° onto precise lower girdle halves. The ‘V’ pattern visible underneath each heart is the result of the lower girdle halves and the pavilion main facets being polished and finished to absolute precision.
You can see how important the relationship is between pavilion main facets and lower girdle halves and how they need to be polished to exact tolerances to create the perfection found in TripleEx H&A™ diamonds.
ANGULAR SPECTRUM EVALUATION TOOL
Aset (Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool) technology plays a large role in determining wether a diamond will qualify for TripleEx H&A™.
All TripleEx H&A™ diamonds show perfect light performance when viewed under an ASET scope.
Red represents “brightness”… the light that makes the diamond bright and brilliant. It strikes the diamond from 45 degrees up to perpendicular to the table.
Green represents less efficient light. It has been reflected off of objects or it strikes the diamond at harsh or indirect angles. This is light that strikes the diamond from 45 degrees to the horizon.
Blue represents “contrast”. It is the pattern of light and dark areas that our eye finds pleasing. It is caused by light that could have entered the diamond but is blocked by the viewer’s head. It should be distributed in a balanced, symmetrical pattern.
Black represents “leakage” which is an area from which light literally leaks out of the diamond and is lost. TripleEx H&A™ show no leakage of light at all.
TripleEx H&A™ diamonds show much more red than green. The table reflection area in the very centre can possibly show red or green or a combination of both which is acceptable.
The image above is typical of a TripleEx H&A™ diamond when viewed through an Aset Scope.
THE BLACK BOX
TripleEx H&A™ diamonds have their own certificate showing a full Sarin report on the diamond, images of the hearts and the arrows, an image of the TripleEx H&A™ logo that has been laser inscribed onto the girdle and an Aset image showing its light return. The certificate is presented in a hand made black box with a TripleEx H&A™ hearts and arrows scope.